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While many people refer to it as an apple brandy, pears are also allowed in Calvados. In the Domfrontais region the clay and limestone soils are much more suited to the strong, deep roots of pear trees. Appellation law insists that at least 30% of the cider to be distilled in the Domfrontais is made from pears. This pear influence makes not only for a lighter-colored spirit, but also one which emits a more feminine and elegant bouquet.
The Lemorton family has a long history in the Domfrontais. Roger is the fifth generation and his son, Didier, now runs the domaine. Their 9-acre property is planted with both apple and pear trees; the latter’s influence is dominant; for every three apples in their Calvados, there are approximately seven pears.
The Lemorton’s distill their cider after aging it for eleven months in oak barrels. Distillation takes place in their own alambic, a single-distillation unit that distills to about 140 proof. The clear spirit then goes into barrels which have an average age of 30 years.
The Lemortons sell some excellent young blends. The jewels of the family crown, however, are the vintages from the 1970’s. These are spirits which still retain their fruit while fully displaying their terroir and breed.
Youthful, despite its age, Lemorton Vintage 1987 Calvados is a powerful spirit, with a rich, floral bouquet due to its high pear composition.
Tasting Notes
NOSE: Baked apple & pear, with wafting aromas of star anise, and cherry tobacco.
PALATE: Weighty, with earthy flavors in the front and pear skins on the back of the tongue.
FINISH: Long, fruit, spice, tannin.
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